Yes. Even though we are basically a production farm, and supply wholesale to landscapers, hotels, and other large projects, we regard the public as our best and most successful customers. As a result of the beautiful lawns they have created following our step-by-step instructions, many satisfied homeowners recommend us to their neighbors.

We are open 8am to 4pm Monday through Friday, and Saturday 8am to 1pm. Sundays and most Federal holidays we are closed because – well, everyone needs a break sometime.

Pack a hat (plus the kids and the dog) and head to Waimanalo! For a map of our location you can either click here or go to the "Location" section of the website. For more detailed information on how to get to our farm look bellow for directions (Directions are given for the Leeward side, Honolulu, and Hawaii Kai.

Take the H-3 and get off at the second Kaneohe exit (#11). Keep in the right lane of the off ramp (no long red light at the bottom that way), turn right on Kam highway, and go about one mile to the Pali highway.

 Turn left on the Pali, drive down toward Kailua town for about one mile, and you will come to a big intersection with Castle Hospital on your left. Turn right (follow the Waimanalo signs), drive about 3 miles, and you will see Olomana Golf Links on the left. Coming into the 35 mph zone, slow down – the Waimanalo cops take speeding seriously!

Continue straight ahead on the highway and you will soon see Flamingo St. on the right side. On the corner are signs saying “Glenn’s Flowers and Plants”, and “Nalowinds Boarding”. Continue straight ahead for 200 yards and watch for the next road on the right. You’ll see a tree with a wide trunk on the right corner, and a street sign saying “Kumuhau St.”

Turn right on Kumuhau and head toward the mountains. Drive straight up one mile and you will come to a stop sign. Turn left and you’ll be at Quality Turfgrass.

Take the Pali highway toward Kailua, and you will come to a big intersection with Castle Hospital on your left. Turn right (follow the Waimanalo signs), drive about 3 miles, and you will see Olomana Golf Links on the left. Coming into the 35 mph zone, slow down – the Waimanalo cops take speeding seriously!

Continue straight ahead on the highway and you will soon see Flamingo St. on the right side. On the corner are signs saying “Glenn’s Flowers and Plants”, and “Nalowinds Boarding”. Continue straight ahead for 200 yards and watch for the next road on the right. You’ll see a tree with a wide trunk on the right corner, and a street sign saying “Kumuhau St.”

Turn right on Kumuhau and head toward the mountains. Drive straight up one mile and you will come to a stop sign. Turn left and you’ll be at Quality Turfgrass.

              Lucky you! You get to drive around the Ka Iwi coastline – the most beautiful drive in the world.  Pass Sandy Beach and Makapu’u, and head down to Waimanalo town. Pass Bellows Air Force Station , McDonalds, and the firehouse, and you’ll come to downtown Waimanalo. There’s a stop light, and a 76 station on the right.

              Go through the stop light, pass Jack-in-the-Box, and turn left in front of L-L Drive-In. Drive straight up toward the mountains past houses, and about a half-mile up the road you’ll come to a four-way stop sign. Stop, drive straight up a half-mile more (watch for mongooses crossing the road), and you’ll come to a second stop sign. This is Waikupanaha St.

              Turn right, drive toward Mt. Olomana about a quarter-mile, and you’ll see the Quality Turfgrass signs on your right side.

See our Website map for details. If you're wandering around Waimanalo, don’t start up the wrong end of Waikupanaha St., off Hihimanu St. – you’ll end up in a cow pasture.

Yes, we accept Visa and Mastercard.

Sorry, we do not.

Topsoil is not necessary unless the area needs to be brought up to grade. If you do bring in topsoil, be sure to rototill it deeply to mix it thoroughly with the underlying soil. If you don’t, both roots and water will stop at the harder original soil layer below, and you will end up growing your grass in a bathtub. The result? Suffocating roots and an unhealthy lawn.

No. Weeds will come up in the seams between sod pieces, and perhaps through thinner parts of the sod. Normal site preparation and weed elimination procedures should be followed before laying sod. Although it is useful for producing an “instant lawn”, sodding is not a short cut to covering up a mess.

Any kind. The warm-season turfgrasses used in Hawaii originated in tropical climates, and have been designed by nature to handle as much sunlight as you can give them. As a matter of fact, the more sunlight they get, the better they perform.

Not bermudagrass or seashore paspalum – they need full sunlight. Zoysiagrasses and centipedegrass will tolerate moderate levels of shade, and St. Augustinegrass will grow in up to 50% shade. But even shade-tolerant grasses must have either five hours of direct sun, or filtered sun all day long, to grow well.

Only during the establishment period. After planting, plugged or sprigged lawns need to be watered often enough to keep them from drying out, but only very lightly – a few minutes at a time. Once the lawn is grown in and has established deep roots, it should be watered only when it starts to dry out (you will see some grayish-green patches with thin needle-like leaves appear when this happens). Depending on your location and the time of year, you may need to water from every other day to once a week or less. And you won’t need to water for at least several days after a good rain.

Only in the winter, when the lawn is growing slowly. During the summer, lawns should be mowed every week. If you delay mowing and remove too much leaf surface, the grass cannot absorb much energy from the sun. Mowing at the right height and time with a good sharp mower is the most important thing you can do for the health of your lawn.

To look and perform their best, zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and seashore paspalum should be mowed low – 5/8” – with a good strong reel (“front-throw”) mower. St. Augustinegrass, on the other hand, should be mowed at least 2” high, with a rotary mower. Centipedegrass about 1.5”, with any kind of mower.

The importance of a “superior” fertilizer is often overrated. As long as it is a complete fertilizer (with three numbers, such as “16-4-4” on the label), it will provide adequate nutrition. The one advantage of higher-quality lawn fertilizers is that they often incorporate slow-release nitrogen, which will last longer.

            More important than the brand of lawn fertilizer that you use it that you apply it very sparingly. Only about 6 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000ft² every 3-4 months  is necessary to keep your lawn healthy. Although it may temporarily give you a darker green lawn, an excess of fertilizer will just make the lawn grow faster, resulting in tougher mowing and rapid thatch buildup.

Thatch is the old layer of intermingled stems, roots, and leaves found between the soil surface and the top of the turf. Although all grasses will naturally develop thatch, zoysiagrasses, bermudagrasses, and seashore paspalum tend to get “spongy” quickly if fertilized too much.

            Thatch is naturally decomposed by microorganisms, but the balance between thatch accumulation and degradation will be thown off if you fertilize too much and mow too high, resulting in a thick, spongy lawn that will need to be thinned out down to the ground with a verticut machine, then kept mowed short.

Not in a normal family yard situation. Unless your soil has been compacted by traffic, even heavy clay is quite suitable for growing a lawn. However, if your soil has been compacted and is rock-hard, poking lots of holes with an aerating machine will help the grass roots breathe and be healthier.

If the spots are small and round and you have a female dog, ask her.

However, if the lawn is thinning out, particularly in shady or low areas, the soil is probably too moist. Dig down a few inches and compare the soil moisture in the healthy spots with the sick spots. If the soil is excessively moist, the grass roots can’t breathe and the wet areas will gradually become yellowish, thin, and then brown.

If this is the case, change your watering practices. Only water the lawn when it starts to dry out. Since they have to grow a lot of new roots, it will take quite a while for the affected parts to recover – but, don’t worry, it’s hard to kill a lawn.

Please remember – most lawn problems are caused by helpful people watering too frequently - and suffocating the grass.

If the patches are in the hotter parts of the lawn, watch out! It is quite possible that your lawn is being attacked by chinch bugs. These bugs attack only St. Augustinegrass. They multiply quickly in hot weather, and when feeding on the grass stems, inject a potent toxin which turns the grass first blotchy yellow, then brown and dry.

            You can check for suspected chinch bugs by flooding the area with a hose. Lots of bugs will come up from the thatch layer, but the tiny (pinhead-sized) chinch bugs are distinctive since they scamper away from water in gangs of hundreds, and are easily recognized by their black bodies with silver wings. If you think you have these, call us at 259-8191. Time is an issue in this case.

Give us a call at Quality Turfgrass – we’ll be glad to help.. Our hours are Monday-Friday 8am-4pm and Saturday 8am-1pm. Our telephone number is 259-8191.